Saturday, October 22, 2011

#32: See the LA Philharmonic play at the Disney Concert Hall

If you live in central Los Angeles, you have undoubtedly seen these all over town:



They always feature pictures of the Walt Disney Concert Hall (on the back side) and pictures of Gustavo Dudamel, the head conductor of the LA Philharmonic, in action.

And, if you're also like most Angelenos, you know that the cheapest tickets to see the LA Phil at the Disney concert hall cost well over $100.

I've always heard that the acoustics in the Disney Concert Hall are unparalleled, that the LA Philharmonic is one of the best orchestras in the world, that Dudamel is dynamic and brilliant... but all that can't justify me spending $120 for one ticket. Luckily, I have a loud voice, because one night I was at dinner with a friend, lamenting over the fact that I probably won't be able to cross this one off my list, when a nice lady leaned over from the table next to me and told me about a glorious thing called "rush tickets." I'm actually surprised I hadn't heard of rush tickets sooner, and apparently all major theaters have them. Two hours before showtime, anyone can go to the ticket booth and ask for rush tickets, and get almost any tickets that are still available for a fraction of the original cost!!!

Seeing the LA Phil at the Disney concert hall just went from "most expensive item on my list" to "definitely affordable." I picked a night to go when I knew Dudamel would be conducting, and had back-up plans (artwalk!) just in case the show was sold out.

I invited my new-to-LA friend Joli to come with me. We made it to the concert hall around 7:00 (for an 8:00 show) hopeful but doubting we would still be able to get tickets. But it was our lucky night, because there were plenty of rush tickets available. Turns out that night was supposed to feature pianist Yefim Bronfman, but he had fractured a finger and couldn't play, so lots of people returned their tickets. So for $20, yes, twenty dollars, we got seats in the fourth row of the front orchestra section. At the Disney Concert Hall. Joli had the quote of the night: "When I see things like this, it makes me wonder how anyone could hate LA." Amen sister, amen.

When Dudamel walked out on stage, and I was profoundly disappointed. All those hundreds of light-post banners featured not only Dudamel, but his glorious Sideshow Bob-esque head full of curls. I could only imagine what he would have looked like jumping around, waving his arms with his hair all over the place. Dudamel walked out with his hair slicked down and downright tame. Alright fine, I guess the show will have to be just about the music, not the conductors glorious hair.

The opening number was Vivier's Orion (yes, I am referencing my program right now.. not like I would ever remember this!) and it was sooooo boring. Lots of percussion and bells and banging and as Joli and I agreed, it took itself way too seriously. Plus, Dudamel's hair barely moved at all. Luckily it was the short number and only lasted about 15 minutes. The next number, replacing the pianist performance, was Ravel's Daphnis and Chloe, Suite No. 2. This one was so much better. It was uplifting, happy and beautiful.

After the intermission (sidenote: Joli and I both thought the show was over after the first two numbers, and the fancy old ladies next to me had to convince us that it was just the intermission) Dudamel came out again to conduct Tchaikovsky's Symphony No. 5. Minutes into the performance, I saw what I had come here to see all along. The hair. It has been fighting its way out of the slicked-down neatness during the last number, and with every crescendo and each tympani bang (at some points he was literally jumping in the air while conducting), it got bigger and bigger until it reached full fro. It was a sight to see, for sure.

Dudamel's hair aside, watching the LA Philharmonic perform this 40-minute long symphony was an interesting experience for me. The first ten minutes were enjoyable, and then... it just kept going. And going. Every time the musicians turned another page, I started to think to myself "Ugh, will this ever end???"

Then I had a little talk with myself.

"You are what is wrong with your generation! You have no attention span! For hundreds of years, this is what people were entertained with and it's not good enough for you??! Do you realize that not only did it take unthinkable genius for someone to write this music, but sitting right in front of you are 100 musicians that have dedicated their entire lives to perfecting their craft, just to play this symphony for your enjoyment!!!! You are going to regret when this is over, that all along you were wishing for it to end! Not to mention that you are sitting in one of the most famous buildings in the world! Get a grip!!!"

Yes, I talk to myself in multiple exclamation points. Don't judge. It was a growing-up moment for me. After that little talking-to, I sat back and just enjoyed the rise and fall of the music, listened to the "story" Tchaikovsky was telling, and reveled in the absolute genius and discipline of the people playing. It was superb.

I cannot wait to go back again. Dudamel is leaving the LA Phil soon, and I am so grateful I was able to see him (and his hair) in action. But for $20 (or $10 for seats higher-up) I am looking forward to a relaxing evening watching and listening to world-class musicians, in a world-renouned venue. What more could you want on a random Thursday evening?!


I was able to snap a few pictures before an usher snippily told me there was no photography allowed. Here the orchestra is warming up.



The breath-taking organ above the orchestra.


Sunday, October 16, 2011

Bonus: The Elizabeth Taylor Jewelry Collection

When Elizabeth Taylor died last March, every Hollywood trade publication had beautiful black and white pictures of her on their covers, with tributes to her iconic life, crusading philanthropy and legendary film career. After the initial eulogies, they started talking about her other, and most fabulous legacy: her jewels.

Unlike most stars these days who just borrow their jewels for the red carpet, Liz Taylor actually had an impressive private collection. When her estate announced that every single piece of her collection was going to be auctioned off, my boss (who is a fan of anything old-school Hollywood glam) and I obsessed together over the auction catalog. The Taylor-Burton diamond, the Taj Mahal diamond, the Mike Todd diamond chandelier earrings, la Peregrina (the legendary pearl), the ping-pong diamond rings... not to mention the sapphires, Cartier rubies and Bulgari emeralds. We read stories about where each of the jewels came from - most were from her ex-husbands (and she had 7 of them, so you can imagine how much jewelry they bought her) and others were bought for her by the studios she worked for (given to her on the first day on set, to "guarantee" from her that she would be well-behaved and keep her diva-demands in check during filming). True to Taylor's over-the-top lifestyle, these jewels are all larger-than-life. She actually wore her 33-carat diamond ring from husband Richard Burton every day. Women these days just aren't on her level.

And then it was announced that before the jewelry collection went on auction at Christie's in New York, it would be going on a 7-city exhibition around the world, with a stop in Los Angeles at the Museum of Contemporary Art. I went online and bought 4 tickets before I even knew who to go with. For $20 each, Marsha, Barbara, my mom and I got to see all the famed gems, plus other artifacts like a script from Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, all 3 of her Academy Awards, 2 original "Liz" Warhols, and some fabulous 70's and 80's couture.

Since words can't really do a 33-carat internally flawless diamond justice, I will just post the pictures. There are other beautiful (professional) pictures you can look at here. Overall, the experience was once-in-a-lifetime and I am SO GLAD I was able to see the famed collection in person!


The Taylor-Burton diamond. 33.19 carats, internally flawless. Given to Liz by Richard Burton for their first marriage.


La Peregrina, or "the legendary pearl" was once part of the crown jewels of Spain. Now it sits in a Cartier-designed necklace of pearls, diamonds and rubies.



The Mike Todd diamond chandeliers. He was her 3rd husband.



The Taj Mahal diamond, given to Liz for her 40th birthday by Burton. This necklace is from the 1600s and the gold and ruby chain is by Cartier.


The Bulgari emerald suite - another gift from Burton. This guy really knew how to give gifts!



Necklace from the Bulgari emerald suite. These gems were my favorite because they were so clear and deep green.


Cartier ruby bracelet.



Diamond and amethyst "Triphanes" necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels.



An original Andy Warhol "Liz"


Marsha, me and Barb soaking in all the fabulousness!









Saturday, October 15, 2011

#26: Drive all of Mulholland Drive

This weekend I found myself in Malibu, needing to go to North Hollywood. I could have driven down PCH to the 10 East to the 405 North for a rather bland commute, but instead realized that the most glorious 50-mile stretch of road in all Los Angeles would directly connect the two places. Mulholland Drive. Bingo.

Literally minutes into my drive, I found out that Mulholland isn't just famous because of the movie named after it, but because it's also pretty much the MOST FUN road to drive on. Ever. It runs all the way from the middle of the Malibu mountains, to the Cahuenga pass in Hollywood. Driving from Malibu (where it's actually called Mulholland Highway) was exhilarating, literally everything you could want in a drive. It was windy, steep, and had the most fantastic vistas, not to mention it was well-paved and easily marked. I passed several groups of motorcyclists and saw plenty of flashy sports cars - obviously this stretch of road is well known to motor enthusiasts. I felt slightly inadequate in my little Ford Focus, but knowing that most of those sports cars were probably automatics (classic LA) made me feel a little better. Speeding up and downshifting for the tight turns was exhilarating, and the views (which I tried my best to enjoy while still paying close attention to the road) were some of the best I had ever seen. And I don't just mean of Los Angeles, I mean of anywhere. Add in the fact that the weather was absolutely perfect (also classic LA) and Ronny had just made me a new mix to blast, and I had the most wonderful time.

The drive started with mountain and ravine views, then led through some exclusive-looking, incredibly wealthy neighborhoods. It kept winding around for about 10 more miles, with mostly vegetation and mountain views, then it became a neighborhood street, and then it became a dirt road. Hmm. I figured I could handle a few miles of dirt road, but it wasn't until mile 2 when I saw the "fire and emergency vehicles only" sign. Oops. Apparently that stretch of Mulholland is for hikers and mountain bikers only. Luckily no one had seen me and I escaped un-embarassed (admitting it here kind of defeats the purpose of escaping un-embarassed, but oh well). I backtracked up to Ventura Blvd for about 7 miles, then caught Mulholland Drive as it started again in Encino.

Once I was on Mulholland again, the road became a bit narrower and more crowded (read: Priuses everywhere, going 20mph. They plague Los Angeles). This stretch of road actually runs along the ridge of the Santa Monica mountains, which splits LA from the San Fernando valley, and at every turn there are amazing city views. On my left was the valley with views of Burbank, North Hollywood and Universal City, and then as soon as I would turn a corner, I would see Hollywood and the downtown skyline on my right. Also along this stretch you can smell the pine and eucalyptus trees, which shocked me. You would hardly think you were in the city, and then turn a corner and bam! The skyline.

There were plenty of vista points where I could have stopped to take pictures, but I promised myself I would just focus on the driving, and enjoy the experience (this was probably best for everyone else on the road, too). Plus, no pictures could do the views justice.

I read on Wikipedia that the Mulholland Highway was built "to take Angelenos from the city to the ocean." But you know that cliche saying that "life is about the journey, not the destination"? That's exactly how I feel about Mulholland Highway. It's not about getting from one place to another, but enjoying the experience while you're driving on it. I was expecting the drive to be fun, but I really had no idea how spectacular it would be. Especially since this activity is completely free, I highly recommend the drive. Just as long as, if you want to go slow, you pull over for the cars behind you to pass! Stupid Priuses.



A road sign towards the very end of the road near North Hollywood.



The entire stretch of road, from start to finish! This does no justice to the amount of twists and turns.

Friday, October 7, 2011

#25: Restaurant Row

Hardly anything in Los Angeles is "walking distance." You have to drive EVERYWHERE. But I am lucky to live within walking distance of Restaurant Row, a strip of La Cienega that is home to several high-end, well-known restaurants. They are considered some of the best of the best restaurants in the city- from sushi and Korean BBQ, to Brazilian, Mediterranean, and even one entirely devoted to garlic. I drive past the whole row every day on my way home from work, and they all look so fancy and SMELL so delicious.

I just knew that if I moved away from this apartment and I didn't take advantage of eating at all these places, I would regret it. So below are my (abbreviated) thoughts on each of the Restaurant Row spots I've been able to hit so far.


The Bazaar by Jose Andres
Tapas
PROS: Phenomenal and diverse menu, tapas style is great for sharing, beautiful interior, “mobile dining experience” where you move to a smaller room with couches for dinner, traditional Spanish flan, matchbooks (for the collection)
CONS: Very crowded valet (luckily we walked), extremely expensive
HIGHLIGHT: Philly cheese steak starter, “magic” mojito poured over cotton candy instead of using simple syrup
OVERALL : This place has definitely earned its reputation. Normally too expensive for me, their Restaurant Week menu was vast and we left incredibly full.
5 stars out of 5
Traditional Spanish Flan was amazing. I was too busy stuffing my face to take pictures of anything else.
-----------------

Fogo De Chao
Brazilian churrascaria steakhouse
PROS: All-you-can-eat, Top-grade cuts of meat, speedy service with people coming by every few seconds offering even more meat, high-end salad bar
CONS: One price - $58 - to eat as much or as little as you want. Works for someone like my boyfriend who can eat 4 times as much as me. But for me it was expensive.
HIGHLIGHT: The different salads at the salad bar, beef ribs and bottom sirloin
OVERALL : It was good food, but really expensive. I would prefer a place that would charge a flat fee but with a limit on how much meat you get, that way I would be paying for only what I ate.
4 stars out of 5

A table full of food - clockwise from bottom: plantains, mashed potatoes, and a plate full of meat.
-----------------

Woo Lae Oak
Korean BBQ
PROS: High quality meats, fresh veggies
CONS: Extremely slow service, never even filled up my water!
HIGHLIGHT: Short ribs, glass noodle appetizer
OVERALL: More expensive and less authentic than Korean BBQ in Koreatown, which is just a few miles away.
3 stars out of 5
Notice my empty water glass!
-----------------
Gonpachi
Sushi/Japanese
PROS: Beautiful courtyard garden eating area complete with koi pond, 50%-off happy hour menu, awesome soft after-dinner mints, you can watch a chef making soba noodles
CONS: Happy hour menu was limited (alcohol wasn’t included!), normal prices are over-inflated
HIGHLIGHT: Asian chicken wings, salmon and spicy tuna soy wrap rolls
OVERALL: This is a fun place to go to Happy Hour, especially since the outdoor seating is so lovely.
3.5 stars out of 5
Clockwise from bottom: Asian chicken wings, albacore on crispy rice, garlic edamame, sweet potato fries
-----------------
Gyu-kaku
Japanese BBQ
PROS: Amazing all-day Monday happy hour, generous portions of meat
CONS: Large tables with grills in the middle make intimate conversation difficult
HIGHLIGHT: Yakishabu beef was seasoned (and then cooked by yours truly) to perfection, corn and zucchini were excellent when grilled
OVERALL: The menu is actually affordable even without the happy hour prices. The meats are seasoned excellently and the whole restaurant smells amazing from everyone cooking their different foods.
4 stars out of 5
Grilled corn soaking up all the yakishabu juices.
-----------------
Tanzore
Indian
PROS: Savory and spicy food, without being too spicy, nice interior layout and décor, decent prices
CONS: Some of the dishes were less authentic, to appeal to a more generic audience
HIGHLIGHT: Lamb briani was savory and delicious
OVERALL: The food was really good, with just the right amount of spice for me. It’s not fair to compare this to my friend’s mom’s homemade Indian cooking, but it definitely came pretty close.
4 stars out of 5
Love the bright colors! Clockwise from bottom: lamb briani, nan, baingan Bharta, Punjabi chicken curry
-----------------
The Stinking Rose
A Garlic Restaurant
PROS: Fun campy interior decor
CONS: Average food, average service
HIGHLIGHT: Only worth going to see the interior and the funny vampire-like waiters.
OVERALL: The scent of garlic will haunt you for days. Ew.
2 stars out of 5
Garlic prime rib
-----------------
Matsuhisa
Sushi
PROS: Fresh fish, world-famous chef’s menu
CONS: Overly expensive, tiny servings, very crowded, completely bland exterior
HIGHLIGHT: The kobe beef taco was insane, but it was literally 2 bites.
OVERALL: For $60 a person, you’d expect to leave stuffed, but we both left slightly hungry. Quality is unparalleled, but the crowd of fedora-wearing wannabe crowd was off-putting.
3 stars out of 5
-----------------